Housebreaking Your New Rescue

Housebreaking a new RAB Boxer:

The good news is that most rescue dogs are 6 months of age or older. As opposed to puppies, who don’t even know when they are going to the bathroom, juvenile and adult dogs are much easier to housebreak as they know when they have to go.

That being said there is one magical word of advice in housebreaking your new dog. Don’t give them the opportunity!

Many newly adopted dogs come from homes where they were completely housebroken. When they first arrive at your house, they do not consider your home their home and going back to the basics of housebreaking 101 will insure they get it quickly.

Housebreaking 101

·    Even if the dog was housebroken in their previous home do not assume they will make that transition to your home immediately. They need guidelines

·    Upon arrival at home go directly to the location you want them to eliminate (yard, patio, etc). Cut them loose and stay with them as they sniff and run around. You need to be there if they eliminate to lavish them with praise.

·    After some time in their designated area (and hopefully they have eliminated) it’s time for them to explore their new house. ON A LEASH. You do not want the excitement of new surroundings to allow them to slip out of view, for even a second, as accidents happen that quickly. You cannot blame them as they do not yet know this is THEIR house.

·    After the tour, setting in one place with your new Boxer. Either on a leash in a room with you or other family members, or in a crate in a room with you or other family members or in a room with closed doors with you or other family members.

·    Let the new dog settle down and watch for any signs of needing to eliminate: circling or sniffing or looking for the door.

·    It is important to take your new dog out to their designated area every 2 hours in the beginning. Yes, this sounds crazy, but the strict routine is the absolute best way to ingrain the process in your new dog. If you are very diligent in the beginning the entire process will sink in much quicker. If you give them too much freedom and accidents occur in the beginning, it can be a longer process.

·    Make sure your new dog goes to their designated area these critical times:

1. First thing in the morning
2. After they eat
3. Before being crated 
4. Before going to bed

·    Use the same door to the designated area to keep it simple for your new dog. You will soon see the dog going to that door or looking at it as a sign they need to go out.

·    The first night with your new dog is when many accidents happen as you are asleep. Best solution is to have them sleep in a crate until they prove they are trained. Second best solution is to tether them to a heavy piece of furniture in your room near their dog bed. This allows them to sleep comfortably and they will usually not eliminate where they sleep. Another tip is to put a bell on your new dog so if they get up in the night, you will wake up and immediately take them outside. It’s all about establishing outside good – inside bad.

·    If an accident occurs be sure to clean with Natures Miracle or other enzyme agents that eliminate the odor. You cannot reprimand the dog after the act has been committed. They live in the moment and will not be able to connect something they did earlier with you yelling at them now. If you catch them in the act, say NO and immediately take them outside to hopefully finish.

·    Establishing a routine for feeding, walking and exercise is also very helpful in housebreaking. Dogs flourish in a routine and when things happen at the same time everyday you will soon be able to predict when poop will happen.

The most important factor in housebreaking your new dog is to NOT GIVE THEM THE OPPORTUNITY. This is a lifetime commitment so do not feel bad about limiting their access for the first few days. This will speed the process to a trusted, housebroken family member.

Crate Training

Crate Training Your Dog

©2000 Canine College of California

Crate training is NOT cruel!

Many people feel that locking your dog up in a crate is cruel, but what is being confined
to a small space didn’t make you feel uncomfortable, but rather made you feel secure and
safe?

Believe it or not, dogs instinctively seek out tight space. This area soothes them as
well as diminishes the area they feel they need to protect. Many dogs make their own
crates by crawling under coffee tables, desks and beds. It is not their cage, it is their den,
and every dog needs a den. Training your dog to use a crate is not cruel and unusual
punishment!

Quite the contrary; when crate trained properly before long he or she will
consider the crate as a "den" and go there automatically when they are tired or just want
to be alone.

Why crate train?

Crate training is one of the most efficient and effective ways to train and housebreak a
dog. The single most important aspect of training is that you reward and praise your dog
each and every time she does the right thing. For example: praise her when she chews her
own toys instead of the couch or eliminates outside instead of in the house. The more
time you spend with your dog, the quicker and easier it will be to train her.

It is important that you make provisions for your dog when you are not home. Until your
dog is housetrained, she should not be allowed free run of your house. Otherwise, she
will develop a habit of leaving piles and puddles anywhere and everywhere, chewing
your furniture, shoes, carpeting and destroying everything she can get her mouth or claws
into.

Why can’t I just put my dog…

Many people, when they leave home, confine their new dog to the yard, a bathroom,
kitchen, or a laundry room. This is counterproductive for many reasons. First, the dog is
not used to spending time in that place. It is filled with unfamiliar and uncomfortable
smells. They do not associate you with that room, but rather the fact that you are leaving.

This may lead to separation anxiety in the future. Second, the floor surface is
uncomfortable and there is no traction available, making the dog more nervous. Also, the
environment is much too large to create the “den” environment that dogs need to feel
comfortable. Lastly, these places are seldom where you are when you’re home, therefore
the dog will not willingly go there and use that as a “safe place” when they are nervous.

A few basic rules of thumb:

1. A crate should never be used as punishment.

2. A puppy should never be confined to a crate for longer than 1 hour for each
month of age plus one (a 2 month old dog should never be in it’s crate for more
than 3 hours, a 3 month old dog never more than 4 hours) when you are not home.

3. The crate should only be big enough for the dog to stand up, turn around
and lie down – any bigger and the dog will use it for a rest room. If you
purchase a large crate that will fit your puppy when it is full grown, then you
should partition off part of it so that puppy doesn't have too much room

4. Move the crate from room to room with you and allow your new dog to sleep in
the crate in your bedroom at night. This gives them a sense of security and they
will settle down much more quickly knowing you are right there.

Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate

Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite
the door opening. These toys may include the "Kong" or a ball. Toys and balls should
always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented
toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You may also place
a sterilized marrowbone filled with cheese or dog treats in the crate.

Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the
crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate.
Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for
the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or
choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may
prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to
avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer
eliminates in the crate.

Location of Crate
Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will
encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out.

When you are not home, the crate should be placed in whatever room your family spends
the most time in (living room).

Introducing the Crate to Your Dog

DO NOT SHOVE THE DOG IN THE CRATE YOU JUST BOUGHT AND WALK
OUT THE DOOR! In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort,
security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:
1. Introduce the dog to the crate GRADUALLY! Start on a Friday night and finish
by Monday morning before you leave for work.

2. Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the
crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures,
thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You will also feed him
in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed
him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the
back of the crate.

3. In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters the crate. Do not try to
push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction
only inducive methods are suggested. Use as treat to lure him into the crate, give
him another treat once he is in the crate. Do not close the door. Do this several
times throughout the day. If you try to do it only when you’re going to lock the
door, the puppy will get wise and not enter at all. Overnight exception: You may
need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases,
the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight.)

4. You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog:
without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call
your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's in your room." Using only a
friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy
discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve
as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during
this game. Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.

5. It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home
with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room
with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is
crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate
and you’re leaving him/her alone.

Important Reminders

1. Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an
uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes,
Boxers, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds (Malamutes,
Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlands, etc.). Cold water should always be available to
puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never leave an unsupervised dog on a
terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise
periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]

2. Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be
sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from
eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly
sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If
your pup/dog continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes:

a. The pup is too young to have much control.
b. The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.
c. The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.
d. The pup has worms.
e. The pup has gaseous or loose stools.
f. The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.
g. The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to crate
training.
h. The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder
infection, prostate problem, etc.)
i. The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left
alone.

Note: Puppies purchased in pet stores, or puppies which were kept solely in small
cages or other similar enclosures at a young age (between approximately 7 and 16
weeks of age), may be considerably harder to housebreak using the crate training
method due to their having been forced to eliminate in their sleeping area during
this formative stage of development. This is the time when most puppies are
learning to eliminate outside their sleeping area. Confining them with their waste
products retards the housebreaking process, and this problem can continue
throughout a dog's adult life.

Accidents In The Crate

If your puppy messes in his crate while you are out, do not punish him upon your return.
Wash out the crate using a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature's Miracle). Do not use
ammonia-based products, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to
urinate in the same spot again.
Crating Duration Guidelines
Age of dog Time in crate
9-10 Weeks Approx. 30-60 minutes
11-14 Weeks Approx. 1-4hours
15-16 Weeks Approx. 4-6ours
17 + Weeks Approx. 6+ (8 hours maximum)

*NOTE: Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 8
hours at a time. (8 hours maximum!)
The Crate As Punishment

NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment or reprimand for your puppy or dog. This
simply causes the dog to fear and resent the crate. If correctly introduced to his crate,
your puppy should be happy to go into his crate at any time. You may however use the
crate as a brief time-out for your puppy as a way of discouraging nipping or excessive
rowdiness.

[NOTE: Sufficient daily exercise is important for healthy puppies and dogs. Regular
daily walks should be offered as soon as a puppy is fully immunized. Backyard exercise
is not enough!]

Children And The Crate
Do not allow children to handle your dog while he/she is in the crate. The crate is your
dog's private sanctuary. His/her rights to privacy should always be respected.

Barking In The Crate
In most cases a pup that cries incessantly in his crate has either been crated too soon
(without taking the proper steps as outlined above) or is suffering from separation anxiety
and is anxious about being left alone. Some pups may simply need more exercise. Others
may not have enough attention paid them. Some breeds of dog may be particularly vocal
(e.g., Miniature Pinchers, Mini Schnauzers, and other frisky terrier types). You may need
to increase the amount of exercise and play your dog receives daily.

When Not To Use A Crate

Do not crate your puppy or dog if:
• s/he is too young to have sufficient bladder or sphincter control.
• s/he has diarrhea. Diarrhea can be caused by: worms, illness, intestinal upsets
such as colitis, too much and/or the wrong kinds of food, quick changes in the
dogs diet, or stress, fear or anxiety.
• s/he is vomiting.
• you must leave him/her crated for more than the Crating Duration Guidelines
suggest.
• s/he has not eliminated shortly before being placed inside the crate.
• the temperature is excessively high.
• s/he has not had sufficient exercise, companionship and socialization.

The Cost of A Crate
Crates can cost between $35 and $150 depending on the size and the type of crate and the
source.

The Cost of Not Buying a Crate

The cost of not using a crate:
• Vet bills for things ingested by the dog
• Your shoes
• Books
• Table legs
• Chairs and sofas
• Throw rugs and carpet, and
• Electric, telephone and computer wires.
The real cost, however, is your dog's safety and your
peace of mind.

Cats and Dogs in Harmony

Dogs and Cats in Harmony

©2002 Canine College of California

Most dogs can be taught to tolerate cats if their owners are willing to be patient and
consistent. Some dogs take longer to train than others and the difference is usually due to
the dog's level of "prey drive".

Nature designed canines to be predators — to chase and catch smaller animals for food.
Although dogs have been domesticated for thousands of years, they still act upon the
instincts nature gave them. Through generations of selective breeding, people have
modified these instincts. By decreasing the effects of some and enhancing the effects of
others, we've been able to develop a wide variety of different breeds of dogs, each meant
to serve a different purpose or perform a certain function.

There are several effective ways to train a dog with a high prey drive to live peacefully
with cats or other small pets. I prefer to teach these dogs that cats are off limits altogether
and are not to be disturbed. Using a friend or family member to help you, set up several
short daily training sessions.

1. With the dog wearing a training collar and leash, put him on a sit/stay beside you.
Have your friend hold the cat on the other side of the room. Your dog will
probably be very curious and even excited at seeing the cat, but insist that he
remain in the sit/stay position. Praise your dog for sitting calmly.

2. Have your friend bring the cat a few steps closer. If your dog continues to stay
quietly at your side, wonderful! Praise him for it. If he tries to lunge at the cat,
though, give him a stern, fierce-sounding “NO! LEAVE IT!” along with a short,
sharp jerk on the lead and put him back in the sit-stay position. As soon as he is
sitting calmly again, praise him sincerely. Continue bringing the cat closer, a few
feet at a time, repeating the corrections as needed and making sure to praise the
dog when he sits quietly and ignores the cat. Have patience — depending on the
intensity of your dog, you might only be able to gain a few feet each session.

3. When your dog is able to sit calmly even when the cat is right next to him, you're
ready to proceed to the next step. Release the dog from his sit/stay and let him
walk around the room with the cat present. Leave his lead on so you can easily
catch him and give the necessary correction if he gives any sign of wanting to
chase the cat. Your supervision at this point is critical - to be effective, you must
be able to correct the dog each and every time he even thinks about going after the
cat. If he's allowed to chase her, even once, he'll want to try it again and you'll
have to start your training over from the beginning.

Some dogs learn quickly, others may take weeks to become trustworthy around cats.
Until you're sure the dog will remember his training, don't leave them together
unsupervised!

􀂾 You can also combine a dog crate/cat crate with the “LEAVE IT!”
command to help introduce cats and dogs. Sometimes the dog is crated
with the cat free in the room, at other times, the cat is crated while the dog
was free. The dog should be allowed to investigate the cat but not to
harass or bark at it.

􀂾 By giving the dog extra attention and even special treats when the is in the
room, the dog soon learns that having the cat around means very good
things are going to happen to him!

Dogs and Children

Boxers are one of the most recommended breeds for families with children. But you must follow some basic, common sense guidelines.

Children should be taught how to behave around dogs, even if their own family does not own a dog.
For example,

a child should never approach a strange dog without asking the owner if it's OK to pat the dog. If the child sees a loose dog on the street, he should not approach it even if he knows the dog belongs to his friend.

Nor should he scream or run away. A running being frequently says "prey" to the dog and triggers the chase response in his brain.

Most dogs, even those that are well-trained, do not consider children as figures of authority. Furthermore, since children frequently stare intently at animals, a dog may feel threatened by this short person who is trying to catch him. Even the best-natured dog may bite to protect himself in these circumstances, especially if he feels cornered.

Once a child is given permission to approach a dog, she should present her closed fist for the dog to sniff. This protects the fingers in case the dog is frightened and tries to nip.
Children should never hug a dog that is not their own, and should only hug their own dog very gently if the dog can tolerate the hug. Children should be taught to never hit dogs with their hands or an object, to lower their voices when playing with the dog, to leave the dog alone when he's sleeping, eating, or ill, and to never tease a dog in any fashion.

1. The dog should never be left alone with a child less than five years of age. A young child may
challenge or injure the dog unintentionally and the result could be tragic. Dogs and children should be
separated at snack time so the dog doesn't learn to steal food from tiny hands.

2. The dog should have a place he can call his own, a retreat, a private room, a den. This can be a
special room or crate in the house. The children should never be allowed to bother the dog when he
is in his private place.

3. If the dog has access to a fenced yard, owners should make sure that neighborhood children
cannot accidentally or intentionally tease him. Kids often begin by goading the dog to bark, then
to snarl. Or they may throw things at him to chase him away from the fence. However it begins, the
end result is usually the same: the kids learn that teasing the dog gives them a feeling of power
tinged with the possibility of danger and the dog learns to hate kids. This hatred may be manifest as
fear or as aggression, and it rarely ends well.

4. Provide a crate where the dog can escape the attention of boisterous or over-zealous children.

5. Teach children to leave Doggie alone when he's in the crate, to pat him gently--no squeezing
around the neck, please--and to leave him alone while he's eating.

6. Do not play tug-of-war with any dog who has access to children. A dog that learns to tug on any
item will soon figure that anything he can grab is his, even if it's a child's toy, clothing, or appendage.

7. Teach children not to run past the dog and scream, for this can excite the dog and lead to
dominant and even aggressive behavior.

The sight of a child and a dog napping together on the sofa or the floor, playing in the yard, or contemplating the sunset is a wondrous thing. The potential relationship between a child and the dog who considers himself the family guardian is precious, and it needs to be nurtured and guided.

Families can accomplish this by teaching the dog and the child to respect and cherish each other.

Introducing a New Dog to the Resident Dog

You have decided to add another dog to your family.  One very basic question is “Does your

resident dog wants another dog in the home?” If they are social and get along with others then 

two dogs can be endless fun and they keep each other company when you are not home.

The first step is selecting the right dog as a new companion dog.  The placement volunteers will

assist you in making the right selection.  With any new dog you bring into your home with and

existing dog there are rules to follow for success.

1. Prepare your home in advance for the arrival of a new dog by removing any trigger items

• Removing all toys

• Remove food bowls

• Prepare adults and kids to not give affection at first.

2. When you arrive home take the dogs on a short walk to calm them from the car ride and to

reinforce their bond. Walking is the best way to create a pack bond.

3. After the short walk, take the dogs into the back yard and with leashes on, let them roam

free together. Do not hover or try to get them excited. Just let them sniff around the area

and each other.  Should there be a problem the leashes make it easy to separate them.

4. When it’s time to go into the house, the new dog should be on a leash for two reasons.

First to prevent any accidents until you are certain they are housebroken.  More

importantly the new dog needs to learn their place in the pack and should not be allowed

to start taking over from day one.

5. Having the new dog observe from a crate or on a leash is the best way for them to safely

get used to the sights and sounds of their new home.  You never want to give a new dog

too much too soon. They are much happier and more relaxed if from the start they realize

that you are in control.

6. Walk the dogs together as often as possible. In the outside world they begin to look to

each other as trusted and respected pack members. Walking together is the best way to

create a bonded pack.

7. Feed the dogs separately. You do not want food to create a situation that is a negative

impact on the two dogs bonding.  Feed one inside a crate the other outside the crate or whatever works best for your situation. This may not be forever but you must remove food triggers until

you know the two dogs are a bonded pair. 

8. Do not instigate or excite with toys at first as possession may trigger aggression. Again,

this may not be forever but a level playing field is important in the beginning.

9. Do not shower either dog with affection as affection may be a trigger of possession. You

can slowly integrate affection back into the picture with both dogs. Be aware of body

language to avoid a jealous encounter. 

10. Learn to be a calm assertive leader to your dog. Dogs that do not feel the need to control

are happy, relaxed well adjusted dogs. 

11. Above all give it time. Having another dog in the house is new for everyone. Sometimes

it’s as if the new dog has been there forever and other times it take some leadership skills

to settle them into a friendship. Call RAB if you need help. We are here to make the

adoption successful.